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Robert’s Arm extends a welcome

August 2022

After a one night in Berry Hill, mentioned in the Gros Morne posts, we drove to Crescent Lake Campground in Robert’s Arm. (Arm is a common place name in Newfoundland and seems to mean a settlement around an inlet). Roz at Crescent Lake had been in early contact with me and was as friendly as her texts sounded. When I told her we started at Grand Codroy Campground she said “Oh Dennis and Alice!” With a smile. I felt folded into a small community! There is a fantastic little common beach there with playground, little library, dock, chairs, fire pit….and a rowboat you can take out. In a moment of madness we climbed in with the dogs and Jim started rowing to a little island. After much effort we got close…only to realize the birds squeaking were defending nests so we did not get out and just went back.

We ate dinner that night at the Bumble Bee Bight Brewery which is actually a recent Harvest Host and has a great parking lot with a view. I saw the whale skeleton in it’s pavilion as we drove by in Triton and we heard the Hazlenut trail is excellent but we had plans for a long day trip on our one full day up the peninsula north of it to the Dorset soapstone mines.

The Baie Verte Peninsula had been and still is a center of mining. The Dorset mines though take the cake for time as it was the Middle Dorset Pre-Inuit and Maritime Archaic Indians that mined there. When they left the rock wall was still marked with their systemic removal of blocks to shape into cooking pots and lamps and such.

After stopping at the interesting Miner’s Musem in Baie Verte (where they’ve used an old tunnel to enter exhibits and there is a resource room filled with maps, pamphlets, samples) we arrived at the National Historic Site building in Fleur de Lys. The trail winds past the quarry where you feel like they left just weeks ago and then up the hill to overlook the sea. This was the Spotted Point Trail. Jim enjoyed seeing all the veins in the rocks there and trying to identify. There had been rain overnight and much of the path was a rivulet so once again I soaked my boots.

After that we drove over to La Scie on the same peninsula. I had heard the roads were bad and there were some rough sections…..but we had seen worse in Labrador. I’m glad we weren’t deterred because it lead to the most picture perfect little harbor and then up the hill to the cliff edge over looking a scene of great beauty. I whipped out my paints and despite being distracted by Jackson who stayed with me while Jim and Chloe hiked further, I captured the scene. The view back toward town was amazingly beautiful also (see last photo below) and as we drove through town a kid on a bike, noticing our license plate from the states, yelled “Dodgers!” Jim rolled down his window and yelled “Cubs!”

That night we brought our chairs over to the campsite of folks from Labrador City on vacation and “talked story” as they say in Hawaii - and Newfoundland often reminded me of a ‘cold Hawaii’! - ridiculous scenery, super friendly people and great weather (at least in July!)

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